Monday, November 17, 2008

Goodbye to the Wild Coast

This past weekend I had one last opportunity to travel East of Mthatha—where warm waves of the Indian Ocean meet pristine sandy beaches; where turquoise rondavels dot rolling green hills; where cows roam freely and people live simply—a place that I love!

Our destination was Bulungula. Sometimes it seems like my farm back home is out in the boonies, but this place was about as remote as it gets. Definitely 4x4 truck territory only! We drove out in the shuttle that the hostel runs each day, and getting there was all part of the experience. Ten of us, plus luggage, all piled into the back of a Land Rover and bumped along what would be better defined as a cow trail through a pasture than a road. But it was a fun journey, and I love getting out to the open countryside. Our hostel was a really neat place, and what’s great about Bulungula is that the idea of tourism hasn’t really caught on, so nothing is very developed. The building itself was very unobtrusive, and entirely solar and wind powered. I was very impressed that a business could run quite normally without any electricity. One of my favourite parts were the showers—to get hot water, you light a little fire using paraffin and paper at the bottom of a tall narrow tube to heat up the pipes. I was a bit overwhelmed with the instructions on how to do this, but it ended up being remarkably easy and was surprised at how well the system worked!

Saturday was nice and relaxing. We went on a nice long walk along the beach, and I was continually fascinated by all of the shells scattered about, requiring self restraint to not collect too many along the way, as I reminded myself of my lack of suitcase space, never mind the fact that I really don’t need more clutter in my room at home! Along the way we also found some sand dunes, which really reminded me of snow drifts. But I have to admit that I preferred walking bear-foot through the sand than I do walking bundled up through the snow, and am still not ready to face the harshness of a Manitoba winter after being spoiled by the beginning of a beautiful South African summer. I’ll try not too complain too much…

I was a bit disappointed to see a sign with shark warnings advising no swimming when the waves were brown (which they were). Quite a dilemma to be in, as I really wanted to go swimming but also really didn’t want to be eaten by a shark! You may be wondering what a sensible person such as myself would choose to do in such a situation…go swimming, of course! Now before you panic (that means you, Mom!) the water was much bluer at this point and the tide was coming in, both of which make for a safer time to be in the water. And it was a lot of fun to swim in these great waves!

It was another good weekend away, and a reminder of how much I’ll miss South Africa. Sure not a bad place to call home for the past 9 weeks!

Pretty sand dune patterns



The rondovals we slept in
View from our front door

2 comments:

e.loewen said...

That looks amazing, I'm go glad you get to go experience other parts of South Africa! and you're right you don't need more clutter at home because as of like yesterday Sarah and I may have started stock piling stuff in your room temporarily

Kathy said...

What a wonderful trip. The shower sounds pretty cool. Fire on the pipes sounds better than electrical current in the shower head! The pictures were absolutely beautiful. That's great you get to take those home!